Tailor&#39;s rule.



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Patented Nov. 2, 1915.

BARNES.

TAILORS RULE.

APPLICATION man APR. a. 19.12. nENEwED nec. 3.1913.

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LONORA E. BARNES, OF LINCOLN, NEBRASKA.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. 2, 19315.

Application filed April 8, 1912Seria1 No. 689,296. Renewed December 3,1913. Serial No. 804,517.

To aU ywhom it may concern Be it known that I, LnoNonA E. BARNES, acitizen of the United States, residing at Lincoln, in the county otLancaster and State of Nebraska, have invented certain new and usefulmprovemcntsin Tailors Rules, of which the following is a specification,reference being had to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to tailors rules and has for its object toprovidea device of this character whereby various measurements may betaken from the human form and the lines upon which the garment is to becut quickly and accurately delineated to pro duce the necessary pattern.A

One of the further objects of the present invention is to provide a ruleof the above character whereby instructions in the art of tailoring` maybe imparted so that the pupil may become quickly acquainted with thenecessary measurements and the manner in which the same are to beobtained.

A further object of the invention resides in the provision of a tailorsrule constructed of laminated flexible material wherebyfthe rule may belaid closely against the body, and the vmeasurements accurately takentherefrom.

lVith the above and other objects in'view, the invention consists ot'the novel features of construction, combination and arrangement of partshereinafter Jfully described and claimed, and illustrated `in theaccompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 is a side elevation of atailors rule embodying my improvement-s; Fig. 2 is a similar view of theopposite side of the rule; and Fig. 3 is an edge view.

Referring in detail to the drawing and more particularly to Fig. 3thereof, it will be observed that my improved rule consists of aplurality of superposed layers or laminations of flexible cardboardindicated at 5, said layers ot' cardboard being glued or otherwiseadhesively secured together. Each of these cardboard layers is of thesame form in outline whereby a 'flexible rule is produced consisting ofa long tapering arm 6 and a short arm 7 extending at right angles'romone end of the longer arm. The

arm 6 is preferably 36 inchesin length and is provided. upon itsstraight edge with the scale graduations 8 indicating inches andfractional parts thereof. The straight edge of the shorter arm 7 of therule is also provided with a scale 9 while the taperingedge of the ruleis provided with scale gra'duam tions 1'0. This tapering edge of therule is curved as indicated'at 11 in theor-m of a semicircle andlfornisone of the side edges ot the shorter arm 7. vThe end edge of thisshorter arm is also graduated as indicated at 12 and said edge iscurvedinwardly as at 1-3vto meet the curved edge 11 thereby forming atapering pointed portion 14 4at the end of the shorter `arm 7. VUpon theface of the `rule various guidelines .are printed or otherwiseydesignated. to'. indicate certain portions ofthe .graduated edges of therule .which are to be employed in obtaining measurements from thevarious parts vof the human form. These measurements4 are also printed`vupon the rale adjacent toA the respective guidelinesas shown in Figsland 2. l will nowproceed to describe in detail the manner in which themeasurementsrfor the cutting or' ladies or gentlemens garments areobtained.

` rlhe line 15 extending in parallel relation to the straight edge ofthe `longer. arm `6 of the rule indicates the scale upon which the widthof the gcres of a waist are "tobe taken, and the line 16 also extendingin parallel relation to the straight edge ot the arm 6 indicates thatportion. of the scale whichv is used in` determining the size of: thewaist of the party being measured A 'line 17also extends along thegraduated edge of the arm 6 and upon said line the measurement aroundthe hips is taken. This measurement is taken by placing the edge of thescale at one end of the line 17 at the center and in front between thehips, and then passing the scale around one of the hips to a point atthe center and at the back of the person being measured,thereby ob*taining the desired measurement for each hip of the garment. These linesare sufiiciently long to permit of the application of the rule topersons of various sizes or builds.

Along the straight edge of the shorter arm 7 and at the end of the longarm 6, a line 18 is provided upon which the measurements at the back ofthe neck` are taken. Between the ends of this line and on the graduatededge of the arm '7. the numerals from 10 to 2O inclusive are printed. Aline 19 extends along this shorter edge of the rule and indicates thelength of the shoulone-half inch mark on the curved inner edge i`thereof and 1s used in finding the depth of the shoulder. Thegraduations on the end edge ofthe short arm 7 are provided With guidelines 22 and 23, the first. ofvivhich is used in measuring the back ofthe neck and the second in finding the curve of theinstep. The inclinedgraduated inner edge V10 of .the rule and the curved edge 11 have acombined length of thirtynine inches and the graduations thereon are sodesignated by Y* means of suitable numerals, reading from the tapered orpointed end 14 to the extreme smaller end 6. A line 2A extends alongthis inner graduated edge lof the rule between the four and fifteen-inchindex'rnarks and`indikCates that'portion of the edge of the rule uponwhich the measurements of the back of the hip are taken.l A second line25 extends from the numeral 3 to the numeral 12 and upon this portion ofthe scale the front arm scye curve, is found. A line 26 extends from thenumeral 11 to the numeral 22 and indicates the scalevportion upon whichtheback shoulder curve is found. A line 27 extending between thenumerals 10 Vand 22 on the graduated edge of the rule indicates thefront dart .curve and the line 28 extending from the numeralY 15 to theextreme smaller end edge of the rule indicates that portion of the-scale upon Which the front side of the skirt andcoat gore is determinedand is used.to-produce the proper length and curve of the coat or skirt.The line 29 Which extends vfrom a point opposite the numeral 6 on theinner curvededge 11'of the rule to the extreme narrower end of the arm 6indicates the scale portion upon Which the curve of 4the legs ofgentlemens trousers, pajamas and similar garments is to be found. line'30 extending between the numerals 19 and 26 on the inner edge of the arm6 is used to shape` the legs of gar- 'at the front and back.

ments at the inside of the knee and to find the proper curve thereof.

Referring now to Fig. 2 in which the opposite side of the rule is shown,the same is provided upon the outer edge of the longer arm 6 with thescale 'graduations 31 and upon its inner edge with the graduations 32While the shorter arm is provided upon its outer and end edges with thescales 33 and 34: respectively. The longer arm 6 at one end is providedwith a line 35 extending in parallel relation to the graduated edgethereof upon which the measurement of the depth of the front of the neckis taken, the numerals from 10 to 20 inclusive being printed upon thisportion of the scale. The line 36 extends from figure 7 on the outer endof theedge of the rule to the figure 15 and indicates the portion of thescale upon Which the measurements of the bust are taken. rlihe line 37ext-ending from the tiveinchgraduation to the ten-inch mark indi catesthescale portion which is employed to find the Width of the chest whilethe line 38 indicating the scale to be employed to ind the Width of theback extends from the numerals 5 to 11. rllhe line 39 is for the purposeof finding the depth of the arm scye rlhe scale line L10 is employed tofind the height of darts used in various garments. A line 11 is providedalong the straight edge of the rule upon which the length of the frontof waists, coats or vests is determined.

Upon the scale 33 on the outer edge of the lshorter arm 7 of the rule ascale line 42 is designated upon which the measurement around the neckin front of the shoulder is taken, the numerals 10 to 2O inclusive beingarranged on said graduated edge between which the measurement is taken.The line 43 indicates a scale portion which is employed for finding theWidth and length of the Yhand and extends from the tivo-inch mark to theeight-inch mark. The line 4(1- indicates that part of the scale uponwhich the measurement around the elbow is taken. A line 45 extendingfrom the long straight edge of the rule in parallel relation to theshort outer edge thereof indicates that portion of the scale 33 which isused in inding the length of the front shoulder. A diagonal line i6extends through the numeral 12 of the front neck scale on the shorteredge of the rule to the numeral 4 at the central part of the curvedinner edge 11 thereof. This line provides a scale upon which the heightof the front shoulder is found. The front and back shoulder heights aredetermined in the same manner, by the use of the oblique guide lines 20and -16 upon the opposite sides of the rule. In laying out the patternfor the garment, the draft is made of only one side thereof, and allmeasurements are taken from the center of the neck at the back or front,as base or starting points. Assuming that it has been determined, byactual measurement upon the body of the person, that the distance fromthe waist line to the shoulders is 13 inches, in laying olf this pointon the pattern, the rule is arranged on the paper with the outer cornerthereof at the juncture of the short and long arms, on the pointindicating the center of the neck at the back. rl`he oblique line 20 isthen followed upon the pattern sheet to a point indicating the height ofthe back shoulder, for which purpose the series of openings 57 areprovided. 1t will be understood that the short arm of the rule may beprovided with a number of parallel rows of such openings and in one ofthe openings in the row which intersects the shoulder length scale 19 atthe point thereon indieating the length of the shoulder as taken uponthe bodv of the person, a pencil is engaged and a mark made upon thepattern sheet. the designer to provide a tight or loose garment, one ofthe openings 57 nearer to or farther from the curved edge 11 indicatingthe arm hole, will be selected as the point indicating the depth of theshoulder. This point is then connected to the point on the pattern chartindicating the back neck length, by a line which is indicative of thecut of the material. In ascertaining' the line upon which the materialshould be cut for the front shoulder height of the gar ment, the sameprocedure is followed. On the graduated end edge of the shorter arm 7 ofthe rule a scale line 47 is provided upon which the curve of the frontof the neck is found, said line extending in parallel relation to thestraight and curved end edge 13 of the rule. fr second line 4S is alsoprovided on this end of the rule and is used to produce the instepcurve.

A line t9 extends in parallel relation to the inclined inner edge of thelonger arm 6 and in concentric relation to the curved edge 11 andindicates the curve of the front of the hip, said line extending`between the numerals 4 and 15. The line 50 extending from the numeral 3to the numeral 12 indi- Cates the scale upon which the curve of the scyeof the back part of the arm is found. A line 51 is provided upon whichthe back and front dart curves are measured. A line 52 extends inparallel relation to the inner edge of the longer arm 6 of the rule andfrom the numeral 15 thereof to the extreme narrower end of said arm andindicates the scale upon which the curve of gores in skirts and coatsover the hip is found. A line 53 is also provided and extends from thenuln accordance with the purpose ofV meral 11 to the numeral 22 on theinner edge of the rule between which the curve of the front shoulder ismeasured. The proper curve for the front and back of trousers andsimilar garments is found upon the scale line 5l and the line 55provides a guide for measuring the curve of the knee. lt will beunderstood that these various lines may be of greater or less lengththan hereinbefore stated, in order that the device may be used fordrafting garments for both adults and children.

The lines 28, 30, 35, 37, 3S, 89, 110 and 55 which are not provided withgraduations are simply for the purpose of guiding the user andindicating certain portions of the graduated edges of the scale whichshould be used in obtaining certain specified measurements.

A line of small openings 5G extend across the end of the shorter arm 7of the rule from the pointed end 14 thereof to the opposite graduatededge and are provided for the purpose of making guide marks whereby capsor other garments may be provided with fancy stitching in variousdesigns. A second row of holes or apertures 57 are also provided uponthe scale line 21 and are used for setting the scale for the drafting oftrimmings.

From the foregoing it is believed that the construction and manner ofuse of my improved rule will be fully understood. rll`he device may beused in the drafting of ladies waists, skirts and coats, childrensgarments of all kinds, including hats, caps and leggings, alsogentlemens garments and parasols and umbrellas. rlhe device is alsoadapted for use in the cutting of ladies tailoredcorsets. The particularfeature of the device, however, resides in the provision of the shortangular-ly disposed arm 7 having the curved end edge 13 whereby anaccurate determination of the measurements of the neck may be obtained.By means of the device, garments may be easily and quickly provided andinstruction can be also readily imparted to others in the art oftailoring. Owing to the pliability of the rule, it will be seen that itcan be closely applied to the body of the person being measured so thatvery accurate measurements are obtained.

Having thus described the invention what is claimed is A tailors rulecomprising a body made up of laminated sheets of flexible material, saidbody consisting of a long tapering arm and a short arm extending atright angles from the wider end of said long arm, the inner edge of saidshort arm being curved and merging into and forming a continuation ofthe inner edge of the long arm, the end edge of said short arm curvinginwardly to meet upon boththe inner and outer edges thereof and thecurved end edge of the short arm, und guide lines delineated upon theyface of the rule and extending between certain points of the sca-les onthe edges thereof to e f Y `1,158,425

indicate different portions oi the scales to be 10 employed in obtainingthe measurements of diiferent parts of the human form.

In testimony whereof I hereunto ulix my signature in the presence of twowitnesses. LEONORA E. BARNES. Vitnesses R. E. BARNES, F. T. GUnNow.

Copies of this patent may be robtained for five cents each, byaddressing the Commissioner of Patents,

` Washington, D. Ci

